This qualifying paper presents the conservation treatment and historical importance of an early nineteenth century block-printed cotton dress in the collection of the Putnam County History Museum. The dress is exemplar of the neoclassical style of the early nineteenth century. Referred to as the "empire style, " this dress style, with a high waist, square neckline and long draped skirt, was first worn during the French Revolution and remained a prominent silhouette through the mid-1820sThe dress focused on in this paper is a rare extant example of an empire style dress that features a hand block-print done a la disposition on cotton fabric. This technique, carefully considered the completed shape of the garment in the planning and application of the printing on flat fabric prior to construction.

The conservation treatment of this gown provided support for areas of loss and weakness found throughout the printed design due to the use of acidic brown and black dyes. Conservation stitching and adhesive were used in combination to achieve a stable garment able to be exhibited and handled safely. The research required prior to treatment provided the inspiration to look closer at the historical techniques of both garment construction and printing.

Combining conservation analysis and historical research, this qualifying paper explores the role of calico printed dress patterns in the early nineteenth century.