Introduction: An archaeologist's sense of the past -- [I] In the company of placemaking people -- In Charles Newton's shadow, searching for Demeter at Knidos -- Wim van Es and the discovery of the Dutch "Troy," Dorestad -- Johnny Mitchell and San Vincenzo al Volturno's first saint -- Riccardo and Quinto : place-making at "lost" Tuscan villages -- Breakfast with Colin Renfrew -- Reviewing Lisa Fentress at Alatri -- With Giussy Nicolini where the blue begins -- Remembering Albanian heroines -- [II] Finding the senses: Hearing -- Boreal Butrint and its golden oriels -- Sublimity : hidden in the togate's folds -- Fireworks at Copán -- [III] Sight -- Seeing beyond Sparta, Mistra -- Sights and sanctuary at Saranda -- Cavernous spectacles of colour : S. Michele at Olevano and the Crypt of the Original Sin -- A Renaissance dream house at Visegrád -- [IV] Smell -- The smell of the desert : Doha and Al Zubarah -- Smelling spices in Sana'a -- The disturbing scent of gold : Roşia Montană, Transylvania -- [V] Taste -- Tuscan cooking classes and S. Pietro d'Asso -- Red mullet and retsina on Aegina -- The taste of Key lime pie -- [VI] Touch -- Touching "gold" in Gordion -- In touch with Rome's ex-pat dead : Rome's non-Catholic cemetery -- Bunga bunga?